The Folkwear Austrian Dirndl pattern has 2 FRONT bodice options. *Back bodice is the same for both.
Option A has a modest square neck with button closures.
Option B is the low, square, “serve ‘em up a bowl of tits” neckline.
Option B Front Bodice:
Version B was my first choice. Not really because of the low neck, more because I liked the unique bust gore detail. However, something alarmed me from the very beginning….this version had front armhole darts….WTF? uh-oh….
And yep, I was right….I sewed up the muslin, and the front armholes were totally janked and ugly. Fuck.
The dart is unnecessary to achieve a close fit, and the armhole’s too big and scooped out, no matter how much I darted….yuck…
Oof, seriously, overall, Option B fit was astonishingly sad. Part of me wants to re-draft this bodice for Folkwear with NO front armhole darts….eesh.
Option B was immediately aborted due to time constraints. Yes, I have the ability to fix, but not the time. This requires some intense pattern work and at least 1 more muslin fitting.
BYE BYE, Option B!!!
Back Bodice (same for both options A and B):
The other WTF was the back bodice. It is 1 piece with no darts or anything. This 1-pc design was also a huge contributor to the poor fit/balance. So, without changing the distinctive V-shape neckline, I immediately altered the back bodice to be 3-pc with curvy princess seams:
This solved the fit issues immediately. Moreover, all the authentic dirndls I’ve seen have 3-pc back bodices….with piping in the seams, which I will add as well:
 |
| Revised, better fitting, Back Bodice piece, with piping basted in place. |
Option A Front Bodice:
OK….so, Option B front bodice with the cool bust gores was a no-go….
At this point, I had to decide on the surest thing…which would be to attempt the more modest, basic, Option A.
Luckily, with all my research, Option A seems to be the classic overall design still worn today.
I cut a muslin of Option A in a medium weight khaki twill, with 1” seam allowances to play with. Oh, and this included my revised 3-pc back bodice as well. Thankfully, the 1st fitting was good, with barely any changes. Because of this, I was able to use my muslin as the interlining! I sewed Ridgeline boning directly on the khaki at the sides, and might add more later at the CF area, or in the front darts....not sure yet.
 |
| A view of Option A Front Piece, with inside exposed to show Ridgeline bowning sewn to interlining. Use zig-zag stitch through center of bone. **Be sure to round off all cut corners of boning and melt the edges with a lighter, or boning will poke through fabric to the skin....yowch!! |
Each khaki piece is sandwiched in between layers of lightweight black twill. All layers (3 total) are zig-zag stitched together at the edges to become one piece. This can also be done with a serger, if you have one J
 |
| This construction techique of combining all layers (SELF, INTERLINING, LINING) as one piece is also known as FLATLINING. |
Each of these layered pieces will eventually be basted together for final fitting/placement of the armhole, darts, and neckline….
Stay tuned for more on the Dirndl Bodice!!
Later, y'all!
-Kathleen in Oakland
The Folkwear pattern was originally drafted in the 1970's. I've heard the critique about the 1 piece back other places, so when my Mom pulled out the dirndls that I wore as a kid, I rushed to check. 2 out of the 4 had one piece backs. These are all circa 1970 - 1974, made in Bolzano, Insbruck or Salzburg, for regular use on Sundays and going to town days. I call them authentic. Folk costume does evolve over time; these also had the really short 1970's skirts!
ReplyDelete