Dirndl Bodice: Part One ~ Patternwork & Fit

The Folkwear Austrian Dirndl pattern has 2 FRONT bodice options.  *Back bodice is the same for both.

Option A has a modest square neck with button closures.  

Option B is the low, square, “serve ‘em up a bowl of tits” neckline. 

I cut and fit muslins of BOTH options, and these entries are posted in the order I worked on them.

Option B Front Bodice:

Version B was my first choice.  Not really because of the low neck, more because I liked the unique bust gore detail.  However, something alarmed me from the very beginning….this version had front armhole darts….WTF?  uh-oh….

And yep, I was right….I sewed up the muslin, and the front armholes were totally janked and ugly.  Fuck. 

The dart is unnecessary to achieve a close fit, and the armhole’s too big and scooped out, no matter how much I darted….yuck…

Oof, seriously, overall, Option B fit was astonishingly sad.  Part of me wants to re-draft this bodice for Folkwear with NO front armhole darts….eesh.

Option B was immediately aborted due to time constraints.  Yes, I have the ability to fix, but not the time.  This requires some intense pattern work and at least 1 more muslin fitting.

BYE BYE, Option B!!!

Back Bodice (same for both options A and B):

The other WTF was the back bodice.  It is 1 piece with no darts or anything.  This 1-pc design was also a huge contributor to the poor fit/balance.  So, without changing the distinctive V-shape neckline, I immediately altered the back bodice to be 3-pc with curvy princess seams: 

This solved the fit issues immediately.  Moreover, all the authentic dirndls I’ve seen have 3-pc back bodices….with piping in the seams, which I will add as well:

Revised, better fitting, Back Bodice piece, with piping basted in place.

Option A Front Bodice:

OK….so, Option B front bodice with the cool bust gores was a no-go….

At this point, I had to decide on the surest thing…which would be to attempt the more modest, basic, Option A. 

Luckily, with all my research, Option A seems to be the classic overall design still worn today. 

I cut a muslin of Option A in a medium weight khaki twill, with 1” seam allowances to play with.  Oh, and this included my revised 3-pc back bodice as well.  Thankfully, the 1^st fitting was good, with barely any changes.  Because of this, I was able to use my muslin as the interlining!  I sewed Ridgeline boning directly on the khaki  at the sides, and might add more later at the CF area, or in the front darts....not sure yet.

A view of Option A Front Piece, with inside exposed to show Ridgeline bowning sewn to interlining.  Use zig-zag stitch through center of bone.  **Be sure to round off all cut corners of boning and melt the edges with a lighter, or boning will poke through fabric to the skin....yowch!!

Each khaki piece is sandwiched in between layers of lightweight black twill.  All layers (3 total) are zig-zag stitched together at the edges to become one piece.    This can also be done with a serger, if you have one J

This construction techique of combining all layers (SELF, INTERLINING, LINING) as one piece is also known as FLATLINING.


Each of these layered pieces will eventually be basted together for final fitting/placement of the armhole, darts, and neckline….

Stay tuned for more on the Dirndl Bodice!!

Later, y'all!

-Kathleen in Oakland

More Dirndl-ness: The Inspiration

Why I am making a dirndl???

Short and Sweet:  Last year, I attended an Oktoberfest shin-dig at this bar in Alameda and loved it. 

http://www.speisekammer.com/

This year, my friends and I are going again, and we are all dressing up!    

There are not many dirndl patterns on the market, so I decided to try Folkwear’s Austrian Dirndl.   Why Folkwear?  I’m not gonna lie, it’s the sketch on the front cover.  I mean, c’mon…that’s cute as hell! 

Folkwear Pattern #123. 
Sketch by Gretchen Sheilds

 Of course, I fully intend to change and “tweak” the original Folkwear design to what I want.   This pattern is just a starting point for me, a guideline.  I will create my own construction method & details.

My goal was to keep it simple and not go nuts. *um......insert laugh track here?*

I needed to research, decide on a design, and stick to the plan. 

Also, I wanted needed to utilize as much STASH FABRIC as possible.

A yummy little piece of inspiration from the Metropolitan Museum of Art



An example of the *better* ready-made Dirndl outfits that can be purchased online.  I LOVE the trim at the neckline!

Holy crap, do I LOVE this dress!!!  My inspiration for the skirt length and shape.  Love the extra-fullness, shorter length and cartridge pleating.  Just adorable!



Left Side: A collection of my Dirndl sketches & notes.  Right Side:  The fabric & trims I will be using for the dress and apron.



So, to re-cap, I am currently creating the following:

Dirndl dress:  Fitted, sleeveless, button-down bodice with knee-length full skirt attached.  (Folkwear Bodice A, with button closure.)

Blouse: A crop length peasant style blouse with full sleeves. (Folkwear Blouse B, with lower front neckline.)

Apron:  Simple gathered apron with ties

snapshot of flat sketches in the Folkwear pattern



My next post will be alllllll about the fitted dirndl bodice...that was quite an adventure, and I will post very soon :)

-Kathleen in Oakland

A Dirndl, a Story...

Greetings from California!!

Whilst Philip is beading up his gorgeous Black Beauty, over here on the west coast I'm getting ready for some wonderful Oktoberfest shizz!!

I'm currently creating a dirndl..... so I can be well dressed while wasted, of course. 

It's a lovely outfit consisting of a dress, blouse and pettioat.  (ain't that sketch pretty?!)

Folkwear patterns have always been a personal favorite of mine, and this was a wonderful opportunity to try #123, the Austrian Dirndl.  Currently, I'm a good 50% done with the outfit, so there will be more to come on this process very soon.   This  whole project "stash-tastic" as most of the fabric, trims, and notions were already on hand. 

Oct. 4th is the deadline for this project.  Stay tuned!!

-Kathleen in Oakland, CA