Back To WOOORK! 9-29-14

Sup! 

It's Monday! 

I made this. 

It went to Burning Man and didn't fall apart. 

Enjoy!

-Kathleen, In Oakland

Back to WOOORK!! - 7/11/11

            Monday is upon us once again.  Let's all take a lesson from Miss Dietrich.  If you have to work.  You may as well show up looking like this.  WOOOORK!!

Philip - In Brooklyn

Finished! Emma's Bonnet

Hi Everyone,

Here's another little project I finished recently.  It's a dog bonnet for my friend's beautiful adopted puppy, Emma.

Ain't she adorable, y'all?? 

Meet Emma!

This bonnet was based off of Honey's old calico one.

A little technical sketch and measurements of Honey's original bonnet.

Pattern drafted of the brim, body, and crown based on Honey's bonnet measurements.

The pieces, all cut out in black & white polka dot cotton.  I cut an extra piece of the crown in plain black cotton, which will be the lining.  The brim is "Cut 2"  in self fabric and "clean finished" along the front and side edges.

The bonnet coming together:  The body is bound in black  bias tape at the edges of the ear holes.  The brim is gathered and about to be attached to the body.  The body is gathered into the crown, and will be sewn after the brim.

Brim is stitched to the body to the wrong side with grosgrain ribbon folded in half and layered on top.

Outside View #1:  The brim and ribbon trim is pressed to the outside and topstitched in place.  The body of the bonnet has been gathered and sandwiched in between the crown self and lining before sewing.

Outside View #2:  Grosgrain ribbon has been applied as binding to the bottom edge of the bonnet.

Inside View:  As you can see, this construction method "clean finishes" the inside of the bonnet with no raw edges.  Built tough.  Built to last.....That's how I roll!

Close up of the bonnet's brim detail.  (Sorry for the weird lighting...it  was a beautifully bright day!)  I created matching grosgrain bows that will sit on top of each ear.  Hella Cute!!!

And here's another view of the bonnet flat, with matching grosgrain ribbon ties tacked at the sides of the bottom edge.  The narrow plaid ribbon is tacked at the front and back sides, and sits under Emma's ears to hold the bonnet in place.

Finished!  A front view

....And a side view

Stay still, Emma!!!  The bonnet fits a little big all over, but she's gonna grow into it!

Emma and her lovely bonnet were going to make their debut at this year's Pirate Faire in Vallejo, until we found out that dogs were not allowed this year.
To bad, really...
Emma's a wiggle-worm of a puppy, but she's quite the well-behaved lady...except when she's trying to drink your beer...watch out!  She's a big fan!

I'm a Miller Lite gal myself....but to each her own!

-Kathleen, In Oakland

Back to WOOORK!! - 5/31/11

           Yesterday was a holiday, and if you had to work I pity you.  For the rest of us today is our "Monday".  In order to keep our spirits high I thought I'd dig up some work-ness from the movie "Gypsy" starring Natalie Wood as Gypsy Rose Lee.  The montage of Gypsy 'stripping it up' near the end of the movie is one of my favorite scenes.  They squeeze in a few different Orry-Kelly costume changes and the last one is to die for!  The true essence of WOOORK! 

As Gypsy says "And if you're real good.  I'll make you feel good.  I want your spirits to climb!"

Philip - In Brooklyn

Back to WOOORK!! 5/23/11

           Getting back to WOOORK on Monday is tough.  So enjoy this beautiful Cecil Beaton sketch from the opening scene of "My Fair Lady."  All this Cocoon Coat work-ness really cuts the edge, like finely processed cocaine... I mean coffee!  Like a finely processed COFFEE!

Enjoy... and get back to WOOORK!!

Philip - In Brooklyn

Back to WOOORK!! - 4/18/11

           It's Monday and we could all use a shot of glamour in our morning cup of Joe.  Today I'm going with some Leslie Caron for desperately needed that pick me up.  Hollywood's French Prima Ballerina is oozing with unscrubbed beauty that most girls pile on the make up to look like. 
           In the 1955 film "The Glass Slipper" Leslie plays Cinderella perfectly.  That hoe shows up to the ball to holler at her man in a gown that is the defenition of WOOORK!!  Not to mention her "F*&# Me Pumps" made of glass.  That bitch is serious!

Philip - In Brooklyn

Back to WOOORK!! 1-17-11

           As you can tell by this photo from 1874 these two gals, they would refer to them as "roommates" back then, are getting ready to head off to their high pressure jobs in finance.  You see Belinda, on the left, was just promoted to VP of Overseas Currency Exchanges; therefore she must look her best and exude an air of authority.  On the other hand her "Lady Friend", Marjorie has been the head of acquisitions for 2 years now and is very established as a leader in her field. Now that you've ogled these fine females and imagined them in compromising situation... GET BACK TO WOOORK!!

Philip - Brooklyn

Inspiration is Everywhere!

Hello Everyone!

Here’s a little mid-week inspiration, courtesy of the San Francisco Ballet and the St. John’s store on Market Street. 

(I snapped these pics with my blackberry, so my apologies for the quality)

Like a moth to a flame,

Like a fly to honey,

I was drawn in by the tractor beam of THIS: 

Traditional tutu gown:  Princess-cut white crushed velvet, with silver snowflake appliqués and sequins.

I wonder if St. John's has hidden cameras in front of the window? 

Because the reaction of every woman walking by is priceless. 
Just watch our eyes light up with awe and wonderment! 
What's that sound??  Oh, that's my inner child squealing with delight, for a dress like this is what we all dream about, isn't it?

I was never a big fan of white crushed velvet, but suddenly I want yards and yards of it!!

Here's another bit of magical ballet goodness:

Just Amazing!!! 
Liquid-y silver asymmetrical toga-style gown, with stunning strategic silver beading,
sequins, and rhinestones. 
Moon wire headdress with pearls and silver beads.



Enjoy!

-Kathleen, In Oakland

Back to WOOORK!! 12-6-10

            Well hey there beautiful Patterned History readers!  Yes another weekend has passed us by and it is time to get back to WOOORK!  Imagine if this was your work uniform... so quit bitchin about your hangover.

  

Philip - In Brooklyn

          

Princess Toadstool - Zee Jacket!

            As Halloween was yesterday I can finally sit down and devote my time to my number one priority, you, my readers.  So I finished my Toadstool costume and I was a HUGE hit.  We'll get to that later, but I should start where I left off. 

            The jacket.  She was FUN to make!  After cutting it out and inserting the CB panel in muslin I tried her on with my hoops in order to make sure my shape was correct.  Which of course it was... not saying I'm the bomb, but come on. 

Sorry about my legs.  I was sewing in a t-shirt and boxer-briefs...again.

Here is my jacket on the dress form.  

The Lapels are not faced yet and the dress form is much slimmer then me.

            After I got the shape correct I removed the muslin panels and inserted them in the self fabric.  I reused the same pattern pieces of the shell for the lining only I split them at the waist so I could line the top in muslin for comfort.  The peplum/skirt was cut out of the lighter pink to maximize the "wooork" factor.  My faux vest front was the same pink and was lined in self.  So the sewing was a bit tricky but if you've ever made a lined suit jacket or coat it's pretty much the same.  I apologize for not having any progress photos of this part but I was on a roll.  Check out the pictures below!  I was looking at the jacket and it felt a little flat so I used on of those heirloom embroidery stitches that are programed in the machine and ran it around the lapels and the hem of the skirt.  I've never used those before but since the thread was almost the same color as the fabric it really elevated the jacket!  My motto during this whole project has been, "Devil is in the details", and we can all use a little Devil. 

The finished and lined jacket on the form with the skirt and hoops.  

Don't worry we'll get to the skirt soon enough.

The jacket shown open so you can see the lining and the skirt lining. 

                   If you notice on the jacket the vest only goes past the front of the actual jacket by about 1 1/2".  I tacked the jacket to the vest so that it wouldn't pull when worn.  

               A little advice on turning corners with those embroidery stitches.  You have to pay attention to the way the machine stitches so that you can identify when it is about the end the shape so you can turn.  I actually pulled my fabric to slow it down through the machine so that I wouldn't go past my turn point and it worked!

             This is the inside of my jacket skirt.  The bobbin thread contrasts VERY nicely on this color.  Happy little accident.  If didn't want it to show I could have used a matching thread.

Enter the sleeves!

            So I wanted a Huge puffy sleeve that would make Princess Di weep, God rest her soul.  I patterned a regular shaped sleeve that would fit my jacket.  I cut that out in muslin to use as my lining.  After that I used my pattern as a base for my outer puffy sleeve.  I patterned my contrast cuffs, don't forget the extension for your button!  When I sewed the sleeve I shirred the bottom of the sleeve and sewed the lining and sleeve into the cuff.  I finished the cuff off with a topstitch 1/8" from the edge.  Then I shirred the sleeve cap and sewed it into the jacket and making sure to catch the lining too.  I hand stitched the sleeve lining to clean finish the inside.  It looks GREAT!  As Kathleen says a beautiful garment should be able to be worn inside out.  Words to live by.

            Here's the finished jacket!! I used the darker pink of the jacket for the fabric covered buttons.  I opted for red thread for the buttonholes to play up the red dots in the skirt.  Notice that sweet brooch!  I hooked myself up with an ascot made from a sheer poly-organza. It turned out SUPER WORK!

Philip - in Brooklyn          

What Lies Beneath? - Les Hoops

 

             Why Hello There Peeps! So here is a brief description of the hoop skirt that I made in an effort to make my Halloween costume just that much more dramatic. 

1) I set 6 long vertical strips into a wide waistband.  Mine is 3" high.  I backed it with a horsehair fusing.

2) The hoops are made from a mid weight tubing I got at Home Depot.  The tubing didn't want to hold its shape so I ran a mid gauge wire through it.  THAT HELPED!

3) I used 5 hoops and spaced them evenly down the vertical strips.  Getting the sizes of the hoops just right took some finessing and patience..

 

In order to keep the weight of the skirt on tmy natural waist I should actually wear a waist cincher or corset.  It makes your waist smaller and your hips will become a makeshift shelf that your hoops and skirt can rest on.  In order to save me time I used eyelet tape (which I had lying around.  Love it when I don’t have to buy shit) and sewed two vertical rows side by side. (I only topstitched on the outside edge so I can still lace through them).  In order to maximize the amount of eyelets I could lace through I offset each strip as shown in the illustration.  As you can see on the form I laced it as a normal shoe or corset alternating between the inner and outer strip of tape.  So when it’s pulled tight it acts as a bo-bo waist cincher!



              For my center back closure I opted for a “Topped On” zipper.  This is being done a lot in contemporary fashion in order to use the zipper tape as a decorative element.  This is great if you want to use a contrast color tape or beautiful zipper finish.   It’s pretty easy.  All you have to do is:
1) Baste your seam closed where you want to place your zipper. 
2) Press open your seam allowance
3) You will sew straight across the bottom of your zipper to clean finish it.  You place your zipper where it will finish.  Flip your zipper vertically so it is right sides together (the zipper should be hanging down toward the hem of your garment)  After sewing the bottom you will press up into place and have a nice clean finished bottom.
4) Edgestitch up both side tucking the bottom allowance under the zipper.
5) Cleaning the top edge up will depend on how your WB is finished. Usually a 2 piece waist band is best so you can sew the top edge into the lining seam.

Philip – In Brooklyn

To Infinity and Beyond – Star!

            After much toil and struggle I have completed my Infinity Star wristlet/purse!  Well it wasn’t all that much of a struggle.  All I did was sew a zipper pocket into the back and add an elastic strap so that I can hang it off of my wrist.  As we all know Halloween is just another excuse to drink excessively.  An AWESOME excuse! 
            So now I’m ready for anything that Halloween can throw at me.  With my infinity star I am UNSTOPPABLE!

Philip – In Brooklyn

Bonus Round: Another Halloween Costume –The Kitsch Witch

Hey y’all,

Here’s another Halloween Costume that I’m working on….

Who doesn’t love a classic kitschy witch?  The good & pretty kind that you see on Disney’s "made for TV" movies starring Debbie Reynolds??

This one is NOT not a princess, but it IS made from a re-purposed dress, petticoat, and every bit of orange and black trim I have on hand.   The only thing I had to buy was MORE orange thread!



An all-black version of the white dress I’m using for the Ozma costume…..purchased earlier this year at a cheapie, “Forever 21-type” store in Berkeley, CA.

I started by trimming the sleeves and bottom edges of the skirt/underskirt in bright neon orange and hologram thread.  Just a simple zig-zag stitch on the widest setting.  I went over each edge 2-3 times for extra brightness.

This is one of those slutty black petticoats in nylon tricot by Leg Avenue…the kind you find at every Halloween store.  It was purchased a few years ago and NEVER worn.

On the petticoat, I removed the elastic from the waist, and separated the 2 tiered layers.  *One layer I will save for a future project.  For the remaining layer, I carefully snipped off the ruffle trim, and edged the tiered skirt with thread, just like the dress. 

I repeated the same stitch treatment on the ruffle trim….9 yds of pre-gathered goodness!  And yes, that’s a Miller Lite tallboy in the background….DON’T JUDGE!

Part of the ruffle trim I stitched to the edge of the lace overskirt...

The rest of the trim I placed in a spiral formation going up the overskirt.  *The tiered ruffle portion of the petticoat was stitched to the underskirt ofthe dress for extra fullness.

This week, I will be finalizing trim placement on the sleeve and neckline:

More to come!!



Kathleen -In Oakland