Monday, November 1, 2010

Princess Toadstool - Zee Jacket!

            As Halloween was yesterday I can finally sit down and devote my time to my number one priority, you, my readers.  So I finished my Toadstool costume and I was a HUGE hit.  We'll get to that later, but I should start where I left off. 

            The jacket.  She was FUN to make!  After cutting it out and inserting the CB panel in muslin I tried her on with my hoops in order to make sure my shape was correct.  Which of course it was... not saying I'm the bomb, but come on. 

Sorry about my legs.  I was sewing in a t-shirt and boxer-briefs...again.

Here is my jacket on the dress form.  
The Lapels are not faced yet and the dress form is much slimmer then me.

            After I got the shape correct I removed the muslin panels and inserted them in the self fabric.  I reused the same pattern pieces of the shell for the lining only I split them at the waist so I could line the top in muslin for comfort.  The peplum/skirt was cut out of the lighter pink to maximize the "wooork" factor.  My faux vest front was the same pink and was lined in self.  So the sewing was a bit tricky but if you've ever made a lined suit jacket or coat it's pretty much the same.  I apologize for not having any progress photos of this part but I was on a roll.  Check out the pictures below!  I was looking at the jacket and it felt a little flat so I used on of those heirloom embroidery stitches that are programed in the machine and ran it around the lapels and the hem of the skirt.  I've never used those before but since the thread was almost the same color as the fabric it really elevated the jacket!  My motto during this whole project has been, "Devil is in the details", and we can all use a little Devil. 

The finished and lined jacket on the form with the skirt and hoops.  
Don't worry we'll get to the skirt soon enough.

The jacket shown open so you can see the lining and the skirt lining. 

                   If you notice on the jacket the vest only goes past the front of the actual jacket by about 1 1/2".  I tacked the jacket to the vest so that it wouldn't pull when worn.  

               A little advice on turning corners with those embroidery stitches.  You have to pay attention to the way the machine stitches so that you can identify when it is about the end the shape so you can turn.  I actually pulled my fabric to slow it down through the machine so that I wouldn't go past my turn point and it worked!
             This is the inside of my jacket skirt.  The bobbin thread contrasts VERY nicely on this color.  Happy little accident.  If didn't want it to show I could have used a matching thread.

Enter the sleeves!

            So I wanted a Huge puffy sleeve that would make Princess Di weep, God rest her soul.  I patterned a regular shaped sleeve that would fit my jacket.  I cut that out in muslin to use as my lining.  After that I used my pattern as a base for my outer puffy sleeve.  I patterned my contrast cuffs, don't forget the extension for your button!  When I sewed the sleeve I shirred the bottom of the sleeve and sewed the lining and sleeve into the cuff.  I finished the cuff off with a topstitch 1/8" from the edge.  Then I shirred the sleeve cap and sewed it into the jacket and making sure to catch the lining too.  I hand stitched the sleeve lining to clean finish the inside.  It looks GREAT!  As Kathleen says a beautiful garment should be able to be worn inside out.  Words to live by.

            Here's the finished jacket!! I used the darker pink of the jacket for the fabric covered buttons.  I opted for red thread for the buttonholes to play up the red dots in the skirt.  Notice that sweet brooch!  I hooked myself up with an ascot made from a sheer poly-organza. It turned out SUPER WORK!

Philip - in Brooklyn          

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